calibrations typos

resources/calibration/bed_leveling/bed_leveling.html

@@ -56,8 +56,8 @@
 <h2>Notes</h2>
 <p>This test uses your current first layer height, but you may want to increase it up to 80% of your nozzle height (before using 'generate') if it's the first time you are levelling your bed in order to reduce the risk of a nozzle crash.</p>
 <p>If after the filament flow calibration it appears that the flow was very wrong, you may want to redo this calibration another time.</p>
-<p>Most of the calibrations need to be done in the right order. This is the first one to do. But if you want to achieve good results you need to calibrate your extruder, e.g.: if you ask it to extrude 100mm of filament, that's exactly the length of filament that the extruder needs to push into the nozzle.</p>
-<p>This test sets the setting "Complete Individual Objects" to true, so you may want to reset your print settings afterwards</p>
+<p>Most of the calibrations need to be done in the right order. This is the first one to do. But if you want to achieve good results you need to calibrate your extruder, e.g.: if you ask it to extrude 100mm of filament, that's exactly the length of the filament that the extruder needs to push into the nozzle.</p>
+<p>This test sets the setting "Complete Individual Objects" to true, so you may want to reset your print settings afterwards.</p>
 <p>Licence for models used for this calibration test: CC BY-SA 3.0</p>
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resources/calibration/bridge_flow/bridge_flow.html

@@ -21,7 +21,7 @@
 </table>
 
 <p><strong>You need to do the bed level calibration and the filament flow calibration before this one.</strong> It's better if you have done the filament temperature calibration also.</p>
-<p>This test will print tests samples with various level of bridge flow ratio. It starts at your current setting, so you may want to set them to 100% before clicking on the button.</p>
+<p>This test will print tests samples with various levels of bridge flow ratio. It starts at your current setting, so you may want to set them to 100% before clicking on the button.</p>
 <!-- <h2>Results</h2> -->
 <!-- <table> -->
 <!-- <tbody> -->
@@ -38,7 +38,7 @@
 <!-- <p>TODO</p> -->
 <!-- </ul> -->
 <h2>Notes</h2>
-<p>This test set the setting "complete individual objects" to true, so you may want to reset your print settings afterwards, or diable this setting if your bed is too small</p>
+<p>This test set the setting "complete individual objects" to true, so you may want to reset your print settings afterwards, or diable this setting if your bed is too small.</p>
 <p>Licence for models used for this calibration test: CC BY-SA 3.0</p>
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resources/calibration/cube/cube.html

@@ -20,9 +20,9 @@
 </tbody>
 </table>
 
-<p>This page allow you to print the loved calibration cube. It's useful to see if your printer is accurate and calibrate some settings. First thing is to select your goal.</p>
+<p>This page allows you to print the loved calibration cube. It's useful to see if your printer is accurate and to calibrate some settings. First thing is to select your goal.</p>
 <h2>Goal: Dimensional accuracy</h2>
-<p>You have to print two cubes, with different sizes. If the dimensional inaccuracy scale with the size of the cubes, then it's the steps/mm of your steppers that needs some adjustments (note: if it's the case, you should also adjust the flow, and maybe redo some calibrations if the change is big). If it doesn't scale, you can correct it by adjusting your xy compensation (slicing tab). With the voron cube, you can also test the hole calibration, as these are often too small.</p>
+<p>You have to print two cubes, with different sizes. If the dimensional inaccuracy scale with the size of the cubes, then it's the steps/mm of your steppers that needs some adjustments (note: if it's the case, you should also adjust the flow, and maybe redo some calibrations if the change is big). If it doesn't scale, you can correct it by adjusting your xy compensation (slicing tab). With the voron cube, you can also test the hole calibration, as these are often too small. The hole on the top should be just enough (on the 30mm version) for a bearing to be pushed onto.</p>
 <h2>Goal: infill/perimeter overlap</h2>
 <p>This test is about to see if the pattern of the infill can be seen on the perimeters. Try to reduce it as low as you can but check the top solid fill, as it can create artifacts if it's too low. It's better with the standard cube, as you have a larger top surface.</p>
 <!-- <h2>Goal: external perimeter overlap</h2> -->

resources/calibration/filament_temp/filament_temp.html

@@ -22,17 +22,18 @@
 
 <p><strong>You need to have done the bed level calibration before this one,</strong> and it's preferable to have also done the flow calibration.
 This calibration will help you to choose the right temperature in respect of bonding, overhangs and oozing.
-Note that this test is dependant of the cooling you selected. You can print this multiple times with more or less cooling to find the sweet spot.</p>
-<p>This test will print a tower, printed with a different temperature setting for each floor. The floor in the middle will be printed with the current temperature selected in your filament configuration. The ground floor, touching the build plate, will ergo be printed with the highest and the top floor with the lowest temperature. You can choose the delta of temperature between each test and the number of tests (how many tests below the current temperature, and how many tests hotter than the current) but you can let them as-is to begin.</p>
+Note that this test is dependant of the cooling you selected. You can print this multiple time with more or less cooling to find the sweet spot.</p>
+<p>This test will print a tower, printed with a different temperature setting for each floor. The floor in the middle will be printed with the current temperature selected in your filament configuration. The ground floor, touching the build plate, will ergo be printed with the highest and the top floor with the lowest temperature. You can choose the delta of temperature between each test and the number of tests (how many tests below the current temperature and how many tests hotter than the current) but you can let them as-is to begin.</p>
 <h2>Results / observation</h2>
 <p>The goal is to choose the highest temperature possible that doesn't produce artifacts.</p>
-<p>First, you have to analyse the tower. Each floor has the according temperature written on it.</p>
+<p>First, you have to analyse the tower. Each floor has the according to the temperature written on it.</p>
 <table width="100%">
 <tbody>
 <tr>
 <td><img src="./temp_tower_180.jpg" width="400" height="100" /></td>
 <td>too cold, it can't be extruded</td>
 <td>
+</tr>
 <tr>
 <td><img src="./temp_tower_195.jpg" width="400" height="100" /></td>
 <td>good</td>
@@ -51,14 +52,14 @@ Note that this test is dependant of the cooling you selected. You can print this
 </tr>
 </tbody>
 </table>
-<p>Here you can see that the floor printed with 210 degree celsius is the hottest we can print without disintigration problems (regarding the heat; the bad quality in the pictures is due to high speed). Also, I succeeded to break (with difficulty) a chunk of the 195 degree floor because of missing layer adhesion; so it was printed to low in temperature. I advise doing the same test.</p>
+<p>Here you can see that the floor printed with 210 degree celsius is the hottest we can print without disintegration problems (regarding the heat; the bad quality in the pictures is due to high speed). Also, I succeeded to break (with difficulty) a chunk of the 195 degree floor because of missing layer adhesion ; so it was printed to low in temperature. I advise doing the same test.</p>
 <h2>Results: destruction</h2>
 <p>Finally, you want to tear the tower apart to see if the lower temperatures have adverse effects on layer bonding. It shouldn't be possible to tear layers apart with your bare hands. If a floor can be easily delayered, then this floor temperature is definitely too low (or you have had too much cooling due to the fan blowing too much), so you should choose a higher temperature or try again with less cooling. When trying to break one, don't put your hands on the ends of the tower but on the tested floor and the next one, leaving only the bridge gaps between them.</p>
 <h2>How to tune your printer</h2>
-<p>Change the temperature in your filament setting (extruder -> other layers), then save it. The first layer temperature is often 5 degree higher to help with bed adhesion, so you should also change it, especially if it's lower than the new one.</p>
+<p>Change the temperature in your filament setting (extruder -> other layers), then save it. The first layer temperature is often 5 degrees higher to help with bed adhesion, so you should also change it, especially if it's lower than the new one.</p>
 </ul>
 <h2>Notes</h2>
-<p>Most of the calibrations need to done in the <strong>correct</strong> order. This one should be the third.</p>
+<p>Most of the calibrations need to be done in the <strong>correct</strong> order. This one should be the third.</p>
 <p>The temperature numbers will only be shown between 180 and 285. Higher or lower values won't be displayed but the test will be conducted successfully, you just have to remember them.</p>
 <p>This tower is made with the 3D model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076">created by gaaZolee</a> with the CC BY-SA 3.0 licence.<p>
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resources/calibration/over-bridge_tuning/over-bridge_tuning.html

@@ -41,7 +41,7 @@
 <td style="text-align: center;">Flat</td>
 </tr>
 </table>
-Here, we can see that artifacts exist until the over-brodge flow was set to 115. It was flat from the flow calibration, if it's not now, it's because the bridges below the top surfaces are dropping a bit, and so it leaves more volume to fill afterwards. Here, 115 should be enough, but 120 is a more safe bet.
+Here, we can see that artifacts exist until the over-bridge flow was set to 115. It was flat from the flow calibration, if it's not now, it's because the bridges below the top surfaces are dropping a bit, and so it leaves more volume to fill afterwards. Here, 115 should be enough, but 120 is a more safe bet.
 
 <h2>Advice</h2>
 <p>TODO</p>