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Updated Text for Calibration Docs
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<html lang="fr">
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<html lang="fr">
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<head>
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<head>
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<title>Bed level calibration</title>
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<title>Bed Level Calibration</title>
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</head>
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</head>
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<body>
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<body>
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<h1>Bed level calibration</h1>
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<h1>Bed Level Calibration</h1>
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<p>This calibration is the first one to do, because it's mandatory to make a print stick on the build plate.</p>
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<p>This calibration is the first one to do, because it's mandatory to make a print stick on the build plate.</p>
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<p>This calibration is made to do the fine tuning. Please level roughly the printer before: move your nozzle to 0.2mm, then you must be able to move a paper between the nozzle and the plater, but you have to be able to feel the nozzle touching it. With that, you should be able to level the bed with a ~0.1mm precision.</p>
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<p>This calibration is made to do the fine tuning. Please roughly level the printer before you start, move your nozzle to 0.2mm, then you must be able to move a paper between the nozzle and the plater, but you have to be able to feel the nozzle touching it. With that, you should be able to level the bed with a ~0.1mm precision.</p>
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<h2>How it works</h2>
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<h2>How it works</h2>
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<p>First, select your printer and your default print profile, with the filament profile for a filament you have. Note that this works with your first extruder if you have multiple ones.</p>
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<p>First, select your printer and your default print profile, with the filament profile for a filament you have. Note that this works with your first extruder if you have multiple ones.</p>
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<p>When clicking on the Generate button, the program will create and slice the test print. You have to send it to your printer and print it. After the print end, check the result of each corners and the middle one against the photo below. You will have to tune your printer/firmware to correct the height if needed.</p>
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<p>When clicking on the Generate button, the program will create and slice the test print. You have to send it to your printer and print it. After the print end, check the result of each corners and the middle one against the photos below. You will have to tune your printer/firmware to correct the height if needed.</p>
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<p>Read the notes and advices below for more informations.</p>
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<p>Read the notes and advices below for more information.</p>
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<h2>Results</h2>
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<h2>Results</h2>
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<table>
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<table>
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<tbody>
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<tbody>
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</table>
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</table>
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<h2>How to tune your printer</h2>
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<h2>How to tune your printer</h2>
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<p><strong>If your printer has screws</strong>, use them to lift or drop the bed below the patch that need an adjust. Don't forget to print the test after the adjust to verify the compensation. Be careful, most of the time, a half-turn means 0.2mm of height, which equals (often) to the height of the first layer, so if you lift the bed, never turn more than that and prefer adjusting by quarter-turn at most.</p>
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<p><strong>If your printer has screws</strong>, use them to lift or drop the bed below the patch that need an adjust. Don't forget to print the test after the adjust to verify the compensation. Be careful, most of the time, a half-turn means 0.2mm of height, which equals (often) to the height of the first layer, so if you lift the bed, never turn more than that and prefer adjusting by quarter-turn at most.</p>
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<p><strong>If it doesn’t</strong>, you have to use the software or modify the firmware configuration, refer to the manual of your printer.</p>
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<p><strong>If it does not</strong>, you have to use the software or modify the firmware configuration, refer to the manual of your printer.</p>
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<h2>Advices</h2>
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<h2>Advices</h2>
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<p>If your filament have a hard time sticking to the bed, you can try to :</p>
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<p>If your filament has a hard time sticking to the bed, you can try to :</p>
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<ul>
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<ul>
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<li>Increase the first layer width, it will increase the squish (pressure) without any over-extrusion. You can go as far as 200% nozzle width, but 150% should be enough. (Advanced setting, print -> width)</li>
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<li>Increase the first layer width, it will increase the squish (pressure) without any over-extrusion. You can go as far as 200% nozzle width, but 150% should be enough. (Advanced setting, print -> width)</li>
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<li>Reduce first layer printing speed, to let it time to stick. (Advanced setting, print -> speed)</li>
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<li>Reduce first layer printing speed, to let it time to stick. (Advanced setting, print -> speed)</li>
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<li>You can disable/enable z-hop for the first layer by increasing "only lift z"-> above Z" to a higher value than your first layer height. Enbaling it may pull the filament from the bed and diabling may let the nozzle strke & push the deposited filament, so you have to test and keep the best. (Advanced setting, printer -> extruder)</li>
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<li>You can disable/enable z-hop for the first layer by increasing "only lift z"-> above Z" to a higher value than your first layer height. Enbaling it may pull the filament from the bed and diabling may let the nozzle strke & push the deposited filament, so you have to test and keep the best. (Advanced setting, printer -> extruder)</li>
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</ul>
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</ul>
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<h2>Notes</h2>
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<h2>Notes</h2>
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<p>This test use your current first layer height, but you may want to increase it up to 80% of your nozzle height (before using 'generate') if it's the first time you level your bed, to reduce the risk of a nozzle crash.</p>
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<p>This test uses your current first layer height, but you may want to increase it up to 80% of your nozzle height (before using 'generate') if it's the first time you level your bed, to reduce the risk of a nozzle crash.</p>
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<p>After the filament flow calibration, if it appears that the flow was very wrong, you may want to redo this calibration just after.</p>
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<p>After the filament flow calibration, if it appears that the flow was very wrong, you may want to redo this calibration just after.</p>
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<p>Most of the calibrations need to done is the right order. This one is the first to do. But ou have to have a "good enough" extruder calibration: when you ask for 100mm of filament, that's ~ what the extruder has to scroll into the nozzle.</p>
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<p>Most of the calibrations need to done is the right order. This one is the first to do. But you have to have a "good enough" extruder calibration: when you ask for 100mm of filament, that's ~ what the extruder has to scroll into the nozzle.</p>
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<p>This test set the setting "complete individual objects" to true, so you may want to reset your print settigns afterwards</p>
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<p>This test sets the setting "Complete Individual objects" to true, so you may want to reset your print settings afterwards</p>
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<p>Licence for models used for this calibration test: CC BY-SA 3.0</p>
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<p>Licence for models used for this calibration test: CC BY-SA 3.0</p>
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</body>
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<html lang="fr">
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<html lang="fr">
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<head>
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<head>
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<title>Bridge flow ratio calibration</title>
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<title>Bridge Flow Ratio Calibration</title>
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</head>
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</head>
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<body>
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<body>
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<h1>Bridge flow calibration</h1>
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<h1>Bridge Flow Ratio Calibration</h1>
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<p>You need to do the bed level calibration and the filament flow calibration before this one. It's better if you have done the filament temperature calibration also.</p>
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<p><strong>You need to do the bed level calibration and the filament flow calibration before this one.</strong> It's better if you have done the filament temperature calibration also.</p>
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<p>This test will print tests samples with various level of bridge flow ratio. It starts at your current setting, so you may want to set them to 100% before clicking on the button.</p>
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<p>This test will print tests samples with various level of bridge flow ratio. It starts at your current setting, so you may want to set them to 100% before clicking on the button.</p>
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<!-- <h2>Results</h2> -->
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<!-- <h2>Results</h2> -->
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<!-- <table> -->
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<!-- <table> -->
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<html lang="fr">
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<html lang="fr">
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<head>
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<head>
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<title>Calibration cube</title>
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<title>Calibration Cube</title>
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</head>
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</head>
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<body>
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<body>
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<h1>Calibration cube</h1>
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<h1>Calibration Cube</h1>
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<p>This page allow you to print the loved calibration cube. It's useful to see if your printer is accurate, and calibrate some settings. First thing is to select your goal.</p>
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<p>This page allow you to print the loved calibration cube. It's useful to see if your printer is accurate and calibrate some settings. First thing is to select your goal.</p>
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<h2>Goal: Dimensional accuracy</h2>
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<h2>Goal: Dimensional accuracy</h2>
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<p>You have to print two cubes, with different sizes. If the dimensional inaccuracy scale with the size of the cubes, then it's the steps/mm of your steppers that needs some adjustments (note: if it's the case, you should also adjust the flow, and maybe redo some calibrations if the change is big). If it doesn't scale, you can correct it by adjusting your xy compensation (slicing tab). With the voron cube, you can also test the hole calibration, as these are often too small.</p>
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<p>You have to print two cubes, with different sizes. If the dimensional inaccuracy scale with the size of the cubes, then it's the steps/mm of your steppers that needs some adjustments (note: if it's the case, you should also adjust the flow, and maybe redo some calibrations if the change is big). If it doesn't scale, you can correct it by adjusting your xy compensation (slicing tab). With the voron cube, you can also test the hole calibration, as these are often too small.</p>
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<h2>Goal: infill/perimeter overlap</h2>
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<h2>Goal: infill/perimeter overlap</h2>
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<html lang="fr">
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<html lang="fr">
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<head>
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<head>
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<title>Filament flow calibration</title>
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<title>Filament Flow Calibration</title>
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</head>
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</head>
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<body>
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<body>
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<h1>Filament flow calibration</h1>
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<h1>Filament Flow Calibration</h1>
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<p>You need to do the bed level calibration before this one.</p>
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<p><strong>You need to do the bed level calibration before this one.</strong></p>
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<p>This test will print five tests samples with various level of flow. You can choose the flow difference between each steps. You should start with the 10% one. After verifying the result with the help of the table below, you have to modify the filament extrusion multiplier in your filament preset (if the -20 is the best, change the multiplier from 1 to 0.8, see the formula below). Don't forget to save it afterwards. You can continue with the 2.5 step if you want a bit more precision.</p>
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<p>This test will print five tests samples with various level of flow. You can choose the flow difference between each steps. You should start with the 10% one.
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After verifying the result with the help of the table below, you have to modify the filament extrusion multiplier in your filament preset (if the -20 is the best, change the multiplier from 1 to 0.8, see the formula below). Don't forget to save it afterwards! You can continue with the 2.5 step if you want a bit more precision.</p>
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<h2>Results</h2>
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<h2>Results</h2>
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<h4>Exemple:</h4>
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<h4>Example:</h4>
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<table>
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<table>
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<tbody>
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<tbody>
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<tr>
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<tr>
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<td style="text-align: center;">Flat surface<br />and good circle</td>
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<td style="text-align: center;">Flat surface<br />and good circle</td>
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</tr>
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</tr>
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</table>
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</table>
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<p>The flow you want to choose is the lowest that don't create gaps in the top surface. Here it seems that the good flow is below +20. So you have to change your extrusion multiplier to 1.2 and print the second set of test (or put 1.15 and call it a day).</p>
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<p>The flow you want to choose is the lowest that does not create gaps in the top surface. Here it seems that the good flow is below +20. So you have to change your extrusion multiplier to 1.2 and print the second set of test (or put 1.15 and call it a day).</p>
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<p>Don't look at the surface quality of the letter, it should be only good at the 0, as it's for this flow we calibrated the bed height. Here, going with +20% flow, i should lower the bed a bit (redoing the bed level calibration).</p>
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<p>Don't look at the surface quality of the letter, it should be only good at the 0, as it's for this flow we calibrated the bed height. Here, going with +20% flow, i should lower the bed a bit (redoing the bed level calibration).</p>
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<h4>Second step, starting from +20%:</h4>
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<h4>Second step, starting from +20%:</h4>
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<table>
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<table>
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<td style="text-align: center;">Good</td>
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<td style="text-align: center;">Good</td>
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</tr>
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</tr>
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</table>
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</table>
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<p>Here, we can see the loop isn't good in the -8 and -6. The -4 is almost round but not quite, so it indicates that the nozzle has lost pressure. -2 is almost good but the 0 is the only one that can be considered as "good", and even so the loop isn't perfect. </p>
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<p>Here we can see the loop is not very good in the -8 and -6. The -4 is almost round but not quite, so it indicates that the nozzle has lost pressure. -2 is almost good but the 0 is the only one that can be considered as "good", and even so the loop isn't perfect. </p>
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<h2>How to tune your printer</h2>
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<h2>How to tune your printer</h2>
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<p>You have to change the extrusion multiplier for the filament you calibrate for (and save it). Formula for the new extrusion multiplier: new_multiplier = ( (100 + chosen_number) / 100 ) * old_multiplier<br />
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<p>You have to change the extrusion multiplier for the filament you calibrate for (and save it). Formula for the new extrusion multiplier: new_multiplier = ( (100 + chosen_number) / 100 ) * old_multiplier<br />
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Example: first step, i choose the -10, so i have ((100-10)/100) * 1 = (0.9) * 1 = 0.9<br />
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Example: first step, i choose the -10, so i have ((100-10)/100) * 1 = (0.9) * 1 = 0.9<br />
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@ -66,12 +67,12 @@ second step i choose +5, so i have ((100+5)/100) * 0.9 = (1.05) * 0.9 = 0.945
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<p>Note that this value may change if you change the pressure the extruder exerts against the filament.</p>
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<p>Note that this value may change if you change the pressure the extruder exerts against the filament.</p>
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</ul>
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</ul>
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<h2>Notes</h2>
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<h2>Notes</h2>
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<p>It's very difficult to tune the flow below the 2% mark, and no filament is consistent enough to warrant it anyway. A filament that have a guarantee of +-0,03mm have a ~7% variation between the low and high end cross section.</p>
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<p>It's very difficult to tune the flow below the 2% mark, and no filament is consistent enough to warrant it anyway. Filament's that have a guarantee of +-0.03mm has a ~7% variation between the low and high end cross section.</p>
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<p>Most of the calibrations need to done is the right order. This one should be the second.</p>
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<p>Most of the calibrations need to done is the right order. This one should be the second.</p>
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<p>You may want to re-do the bed level calibration is the result is below 0.9 or higher than 1.1.</p>
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<p>You may want to re-do the bed level calibration if the result is below 0.9 or higher than 1.1.</p>
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<p>Note that the filament extrusion multiplier can change with a different filament material, as a softer one can be squished/dented more by the extruder and so have a lower diameter in the extruder gears.</p>
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<p>Note that the filament extrusion multiplier can change with a different filament material, as a softer one can be squished/dented more by the extruder and so have a lower diameter in the extruder gears.</p>
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<p>If your printer extruder eat the filament and can't complete the top layer, you have to increase the ironing distribution (by 5% increment). (Expert setting, print -> infill)</p>
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<p>If your printer extruder eats the filament and can't complete the top layer, you will have to increase the ironing distribution (by 5% increments). (Expert setting, print -> infill)</p>
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<p>This test set the setting "complete individual objects" to true, so you may want to reset your print settings afterwards</p>
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<p>This test set the setting "Complete Individual objects" to true, so you may want to reset your print settings afterwards</p>
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<p>Licence for models used for this calibration test: CC BY-SA 3.0</p>
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<p>Licence for models used for this calibration test: CC BY-SA 3.0</p>
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</body>
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</body>
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</html>
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<html lang="fr">
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<title>Filament temperature calibration</title>
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<title>Filament Temperature Calibration</title>
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</head>
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<body>
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<body>
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<h1>Filament temperature calibration</h1>
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<h1>Filament Temperature Calibration</h1>
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<p>You need to do the bed level calibration before this one, and it's preferable to have also done the flow calibration. This calibration will help you to choose the right temperature with respect of bonding, overhangs and ooze. Note that this test is dependant of the cooling you selected. You can print this multiple times with more or less cooling to find your perfect spot.</p>
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<p><strong>You need to of done the bed level calibration before this one,</strong> and it's preferable to have also done the flow calibration.
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This calibration will help you to choose the right temperature with respect of bonding, overhangs and ooze.
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Note that this test is dependant of the cooling you selected. You can print this multiple times with more or less cooling to find your perfect spot.</p>
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<p>This test will print a tower of prints printed with a different temperature for each floor. The "middle" one will be printed with the current temperature selected in your filament configuration. The first item, on the build plate will be the hottest and the higher will be the coolest. You can choose the delta of temperature between each test and the number of tests (how many tests below the current temperature, and how many tests hotter than the current) but you can let them as-is to begun.</p>
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<p>This test will print a tower of prints printed with a different temperature for each floor. The "middle" one will be printed with the current temperature selected in your filament configuration. The first item, on the build plate will be the hottest and the higher will be the coolest. You can choose the delta of temperature between each test and the number of tests (how many tests below the current temperature, and how many tests hotter than the current) but you can let them as-is to begun.</p>
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<h2>Results : observation</h2>
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<h2>Results : observation</h2>
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<p>The goal is to choose the highest temperature that doesn't produce artifacts.</p>
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<p>The goal is to choose the highest temperature that doesn't produce artifacts.</p>
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</tbody>
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</table>
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<p>Here, you can see that the 210 degree is the hottest we can print without problems (at least not heat-dependant, bad quality is due to high speed). Also, i succeed to break (with difficulty) a chunk of the 195 degree, so it's a bit too cold.</p>
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<p>Here you can see that the 210 degree is the hottest we can print without problems (at least not heat-dependant, bad quality is due to high speed). Also, i succeeded to break (with difficulty) a chunk of the 195 degree, so it's a bit too cold.</p>
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<h2>Results: destruction</h2>
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<h2>Results: destruction</h2>
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<p>Finally, you want to tear it apart to see if the lower temperature doesn't have adverse effect on layer bonding. It should be impossible to tear it apart with your own hands. If a floor can be easily broken, then this floor temperature is definitely too low (or you put too much cooling = fan are blowing too hard), so you should choose a higher temperature or try again with less cooling. When trying to break one, don't put your hands on the ends of the tower but on the tested floor and the next one, leaving only the bridge gaps between them.</p>
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<p>Finally, you want to tear it apart to see if the lower temperature doesn't have adverse effect on layer bonding. It should be impossible to tear it apart with your own hands. If a floor can be easily broken, then this floor temperature is definitely too low (or you put too much cooling = fan is blowing too hard), so you should choose a higher temperature or try again with less cooling. When trying to break one, don't put your hands on the ends of the tower but on the tested floor and the next one, leaving only the bridge gaps between them.</p>
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<h2>How to tune your printer</h2>
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<h2>How to tune your printer</h2>
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<p>Change the temperature in your filament setting (extruder -> other layers), then save it. The first layer temperature is often 5 degree higher to help with bed adhesion, so you should also change it, especially if it's lower than the new one.</p>
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<p>Change the temperature in your filament setting (extruder -> other layers), then save it. The first layer temperature is often 5 degree higher to help with bed adhesion, so you should also change it, especially if it's lower than the new one.</p>
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</ul>
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</ul>
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<h2>Notes</h2>
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<h2>Notes</h2>
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<p>Most of the calibrations need to done is the right order. This one should be the third.</p>
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<p>Most of the calibrations need to done in the <strong>correct</strong> order. This one should be the third.</p>
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<p>The temperature numbers will only be shown between 180 and 285. Higher or lower values won't be displayed but the test will be conducted successfully, you just have to remember them.</p>
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<p>The temperature numbers will only be shown between 180 and 285. Higher or lower values won't be displayed but the test will be conducted successfully, you just have to remember them.</p>
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<p>This tower is made with the 3D model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076">created by gaaZolee</a> with the CC BY-SA 3.0 licence.<p>
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<p>This tower is made with the 3D model <a href="https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2729076">created by gaaZolee</a> with the CC BY-SA 3.0 licence.<p>
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<title>Ironing pattern calibration</title>
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<title>Ironing Pattern Calibration</title>
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</head>
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</head>
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<body>
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<body>
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<h1>Ironing pattern calibration</h1>
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<h1>Ironing Cattern Calibration</h1>
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<p>You need to do the filament flow calibration and the bridge flow ratio before this one. It's better if you have done the filament temperature.</p>
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<p><strong>You need to do the filament flow calibration and the bridge flow ratio before this one.</strong> It's better if you have done the filament temperature.</p>
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<p>This test will print tests samples with various level of obver-bridge flow ratio, between 100 and 125. Choose the lowest value where the top surface is smooth without rough "holes".</p>
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<p>This test will print test samples with various level of over-bridge flow ratio, between 100 and 125. Choose the lowest value where the top surface is smooth without rough "holes".</p>
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<h2>Results</h2>
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<h2>Results</h2>
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<table>
|
<table>
|
||||||
<tbody>
|
<tbody>
|
||||||
@ -27,7 +27,7 @@
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|||||||
<td style="text-align: center;">Flat</td>
|
<td style="text-align: center;">Flat</td>
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</tr>
|
</tr>
|
||||||
</table>
|
</table>
|
||||||
Hee, we can see that artifact exists until the over-brodge flow was set to 115. It was flat from the flow calibration, if it's not now, it's because the bridges below the top surfaces are dropping a bit, and so there are more volume to fill afterwards. Here, 115 should be enough, but 120 is a more safe bet.
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Here, we can see that artifacts exist until the over-brodge flow was set to 115. It was flat from the flow calibration, if it's not now, it's because the bridges below the top surfaces are dropping a bit, and so there are more volume to fill afterwards. Here, 115 should be enough, but 120 is a more safe bet.
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||||||
|
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<h2>Advice</h2>
|
<h2>Advice</h2>
|
||||||
<p>TODO</p>
|
<p>TODO</p>
|
||||||
|
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Reference in New Issue
Block a user