Update bed_leveling.html

Edit some of the grammar and fix a couple typos.

resources/calibration/bed_leveling/bed_leveling.html

@@ -15,12 +15,12 @@
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-<p>This calibration is the first one to do, because it's mandatory to make a print stick well on the build plate.</p>
+<p>This calibration is the first one to do because it's required to make a print stick well on the build plate.</p>
-<p>This calibration is made to do the fine tuning. Please roughly level the printer before you start, move your nozzle to 0.2mm, then you must be able to move a paper between the nozzle and the plater, but you have to be able to feel the nozzle touching it. With that, you should be able to level the bed with a ~0.1mm precision.</p>
+<p>This calibration is made to do the fine tuning. Please roughly level the printer before you start and move the nozzle to 0.2mm above the bed. You must be able to move a paper between the nozzle and the plate, but you have to be able to feel the nozzle touching it. After that, you should be able to level the bed to within a ~0.1mm precision.</p>
 <h2>How it works</h2>
-<p>First, select your printer and your default print profile, with the filament profile for a filament you have. Note that this works with your first extruder if you have multiple ones.</p>
+<p>First, select your printer and your default print profile with the filament profile for the filament you have. Note that this calibration only works with your first extruder if you have multiple ones.</p>
-<p>When clicking on the Generate button, the program will create and slice the test print. You have to send it to your printer and print it. After the print end, check the result of each corners and the middle one against the photos below. You will have to tune your printer/firmware to correct the height if needed.</p>
+<p>When clicking on the Generate button, the program will create and slice the test print. You have to send it to your printer and print it. After the print ends, check the result of the five patches against the photos below. You will have to tune your printer/firmware to correct the height if needed.</p>
-<p>Read the notes and advices below for more information.</p>
+<p>Read the notes and advice below for more information.</p>
 <h2>Results</h2>
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@@ -37,26 +37,26 @@
 <td style="text-align: center;">Too far away</td>
 <td style="text-align: center;">Too far</td>
 <td style="text-align: center;">Too far:<br />You can spot<br />a little gap</td>
-<td style="text-align: center;">perfect</td>
+<td style="text-align: center;">Perfect</td>
 <td style="text-align: center;">Too near</td>
-<td style="text-align: center;">Trap!<br />It's too near:<br />check the thickness<br />with your fingers!</td>
+<td style="text-align: center;">Warning!<br />It's too near:<br />check the thickness<br />with your fingers!</td>
 <td style="text-align: center;">Far too near<br />Dangerous<br />for the bed</td>
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 <h2>How to tune your printer</h2>
-<p><strong>If your printer has screws</strong>, use them to lift or drop the bed below the patch that need an adjust. Don't forget to print the test after the adjustment to verify the compensation. Be careful, most of the time, a half-turn means 0.2mm of height, which equals (often) to the height of the first layer, so if you lift the bed, never turn more than that and prefer adjusting by quarter-turn at most.</p>
+<p><strong>If your printer has bed screws</strong>, use them to raise or lower the bed corresponding to the patch that needs adjustment. Don't forget to re-print the test after the adjustment to verify the compensation. Be careful, as most of the time, a half-turn corresponds to 0.2mm of height adjustment, which is typically the same as the height of the first layer. If you raise the bed, never turn more than that and usually only adjust by quarter-turn at most.</p>
-<p><strong>If it does not</strong>, you have to use the software or modify the firmware configuration, refer to the manual of your printer.</p>
+<p><strong>If it does not have bed screws</strong>, you have to use the software or modify the firmware configuration. Refer to the manual for your printer.</p>
 <h2>Advice</h2>
-<p>If your filament has a hard time sticking to the bed, you can try to :</p>
+<p>If your filament has a hard time sticking to the bed, you can try to:</p>
 <ul>
-<li>Increase the first layer width, it will increase the squish (pressure) without any over-extrusion. You can go as far as 200% nozzle width, but 150% should be enough. (Advanced setting, print -> width)</li>
+<li>Increase the first layer width, it will increase the squish (pressure) without any over-extrusion. You can go as high as 200% nozzle width, but 150% should be enough. (Advanced setting, print -> width)</li>
-<li>Reduce first layer printing speed, to let it time to stick. (Advanced setting, print -> speed)</li>
+<li>Reduce the first layer printing speed to give it time to stick. (Advanced setting, print -> speed)</li>
-<li>You can disable/enable z-hop for the first layer by increasing "only lift z"-&gt; above Z" to a higher value than your first layer height. Enabling it may pull the filament from the bed and disabling may let the nozzle strike &amp; push the deposited filament, so you have to test and keep the optimal. (Advanced setting, printer -> extruder)</li>
+<li>You can disable/enable z-hop for the first layer by increasing "only lift z"-&gt; above Z" to a higher value than your first layer height. Enabling it may pull the filament from the bed and disabling may let the nozzle hit the bed &amp; push the deposited filament, so you have to test to find the optimal value. (Advanced setting, printer -> extruder)</li>
 </ul>
 <h2>Notes</h2>
-<p>This test uses your current first layer height, but you may want to increase it up to 80% of your nozzle height (before using 'generate') if it's the first time you level your bed, to reduce the risk of a nozzle crash.</p>
+<p>This test uses your current first layer height, but you may want to increase it up to 80% of your nozzle height (before using 'generate') if it's the first time you are levelling your bed in order to reduce the risk of a nozzle crash.</p>
-<p>If after the filament flow calibration it appears that the flow was very wrong, you may want to redo this calibration just another time.</p>
+<p>If after the filament flow calibration it appears that the flow was very wrong, you may want to redo this calibration another time.</p>
-<p>Most of the calibrations need to be done in the right order. This one is the first one to do. But if you want to achieve good results you need to calibrate your extruder, e.g.: if you order for 100mm of filament extrusion, that's exactly the length of filament that the extruder has to push into the nozzle.</p>
+<p>Most of the calibrations need to be done in the right order. This is the first one to do. But if you want to achieve good results you need to calibrate your extruder, e.g.: if you ask it to extrude 100mm of filament, that's exactly the length of filament that the extruder needs to push into the nozzle.</p>
 <p>This test sets the setting "Complete Individual Objects" to true, so you may want to reset your print settings afterwards</p>
 <p>Licence for models used for this calibration test: CC BY-SA 3.0</p>
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