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36 lines
3.6 KiB
HTML
36 lines
3.6 KiB
HTML
<!DOCTYPE html>
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<html lang="fr">
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<head>
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<meta charset="utf-8">
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<title>Calibrations</title>
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</head>
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<body>
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<h1 style="text-align: center;">Introduction</h1>
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<p>Welcome to the calibration menu. This menu is here to help you print quick & efficient calibrations.</p>
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<h2>Why?</h2>
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<p>Most printer’s profile should work pretty good with default settings, but if you encounter problems, or if you want to go a step above in quality, you have to ensure that everything is well calibrated. Calibrations can be divided in three groups: printer, filament and slicer.</p>
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<p>The printer has to be calibrated first, then the filament and then the slicer.</p>
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<h2>Printer calibration</h2>
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<p>This is the first thing to calibrate. Each printer is different in this domain, and you should look first into your printer’s manual for more informations.</p>
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<h3>Extruder calibration</h3>
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<p>This one doesn't have a menu entry because it can't be calibrated by a print. It's not mandatory but it may avoid you some problems. Most of it is explained in the flow calibration menu entry.</p>
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<h3>Bed levelling</h3>
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<p>Most printer doesn't have auto-bed levelling, and even the ones with one have to be calibrated at least one time. Everything should be explain in the menu how to level your printer, but be sure to have read your printer documentation before, in case there is some specific steps. This calibration print is particularly useful if you want to verify / refine the end result, or just check if it hasn't changed since the last time.</p>
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<p>It will create 5 small patch and you should be able to see where the bed is level and where it needs some adjustments.</p>
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<h2>Filament calibration</h2>
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<p>Every filament has different properties, and so may need adjustments. Default profile should work most of the time, but it may create avoidable artifacts. Also some specials filaments like wood-filled need extra care.</p>
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<h3>Filament flow calibration</h3>
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<p>The extruder bite in the filament to push it, and the way the spring compress the filament, and by how much it's bitten may change the flow needed. Also, if your extruder is not very well calibrated, this step will help you to counteract this problem.</p>
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<p>Note that if your filament has a variable diameter or isn't round, you will encounter flow problem but these issues can't been addressed. You should change your filament provider or investing in a filament width sensor.</p>
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<h3>Filament temperature calibration</h3>
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<p>Some filaments need more heat to stick, some need less heat to prevent too much ooze or loose overhangs. This calibration is here to help you enter the good value for the temperature. You can also so do multiple trials with different fan speed, to try to find the best combination.</p>
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<h2>Slicer calibration</h2>
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<p>These calibrations are here to help you to find the best super Slicer settings that will go well with your printer and filament combination.</p>
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<h3>Bridge flow calibration</h3>
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<p>Bridges are sometimes a bit hard to print with a good look. This calibration will help you to choose the best setting for the bridge flow. You can also try with different value of bridge fan speed</p>
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<h3>Ironing pattern calibration</h3>
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<p>It's difficult to be sure you have a flat top, as it may drop a bit in the centre of a large flat area. This calibration will help you to find the best setting to compensate for that.</p>
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<h3>Calibration cube calibration</h3>
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<p>This entry will allow you to always have a calibration cube ready to print. It's useful to see if the print has a good dimensional accuracy. This may be compensated with the various xy size compensation settings.</p>
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</body>
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</html> |