mirror of
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update wiki (#768)
* regroup all printers to one file * add some comments * remove unneeded file * group ESP boards * update picture to remove divider bridge * smaller pictures * change linebreak * add HW connection into side pannel access * update after review * rectification about 3V3 5V compatibility
This commit is contained in:
Julien Staub
GitHub
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commit
3b1fcb0d8c
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# AZSMZ-mini and AZSMZ LCD boards
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## Where to connect ESP on AZSMZ-mini board
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If you don't have the soldering skills to grab the connectors from the unpopulated ethernet connection, you can also get 3.3v and GND from the ISP header (bottom left on the diagram above).
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## Where to connect ESP on AZSMZ LCD
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# Where to connect ESP on Azteeg X5 mini
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# Where to connect on BIQU KFB2.0 (all in one Ramps1.4/Mega2560 R3 controller based)
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# ESP12F
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We can flash our loved ESP3D to cheap ESP-12F based serial wifi module (eg [from aliexpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP8266-ESP-12F-Serial-WIFI-Wireless-Transceiver-Module-For-Arduino-ESP-12F-Adapter-Expansion-Board-For/32804504326.html) ). It contains built in 2-way levelshifter/bi-directional logic level converter. So we can power and use via 5V uart from the 3d printers' motherboard.
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* We need to manualy ground the ```IO0``` while powering up to start in flash mode while powering up (there is no switch for that, neither for reset)
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* 
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* I used FTDI adapter as usb2serial
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* We have to see in console/serial monitor boot mode is (**1**,7).
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* baudrate: 74880
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* ```rst cause:2, boot mode:(3,7)```
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* Then flash like other esp based board for esp3d
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* [check flash size](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Flash-Size). Mine has 4M
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* [Install](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Install-Instructions)
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@ -1,9 +0,0 @@
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# Creality CR10 Ender 3
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For the Sanguino based CR-10 and Ender printers you will need to solder to any of the via circled (can also be done in the backside of board), or to the legs of the Arduino or ftdi. Connect TX from the board to RX of Wemos D1 mini and RX from board to TX of Wemos D1 mini. 5v and GND are located in the six pin header next to the LCD connector.
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Since soldering might be difficult because the solder points are so close to each other, another option is to scrape off the insulation from the traces on the backside and solder there. Be extra careful not to scrape the surrounding ground plane. You need suitable fine scraping tools for this. The picture below shows an Ender-2 PCB.
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# Creality Ender 4
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You will need to solder to small circle, or to the legs of the ATmega2560 (RXD0 pin 2, TXD0 pin 3)
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# Davinci boards
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## Where to connect ESP on Davinci 1.0/2.0 board
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---
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## Where to connect NodeMCU V3 on Davinci 1.0A board
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---
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## Alternate Module placement for increased WiFi range (outside metal chassis, antenna has vertical polarization)
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# ESP01 serial wifi module
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more info about the Breakout PCB: <https://www.keyestudio.com/keyestudio-esp-01s-wifi-to-serial-shield-module-for-arduino-esp8266-wifi-p0499-p0499.html>
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# Wiring ESP32 CAM
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Once the board is programmed, the wiring to the printer board should be like this:
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Note: this is not the only way to connect the board.
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* other values for the resistors could be used (always in the ratio 1:2)
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* could use a logic level coverter 5V - 3.3V (see [D1-mini wiki page](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/D1-mini) )
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# Wiring ESP01
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* Use GPIO2 to ground to reset all settings in hard way - 2-6 sec after boot / not before!! Set GPIO2 to ground before boot change boot mode and go to special boot that do not reach FW. Currently boot take 10 sec - giving 8 seconds to connect GPIO2 to GND and do an hard recovery for settings
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* Use GPIO0 to ground to be in update mode
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# Wiring ESP12E/F
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ESP need 3.3v, it is not 5v tolerant, if printer board use more than 3.3V like 5V on ramps.
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you can also use Logic LevelConverter Bi-Directional
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In order to flash some ESP12E/F boards via their UART interface, the following pins need to be connected:
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* VCC to GPIO2
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* GND to GPIO0
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This has been tested with ESP-12-E boards labeled "ESP8266 For ESP3D FYSETC.COM"
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# Connecting Anet A8 to ESP Boards
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## Anet boards up to v1.5
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### Step 1
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You will also have to unsolder the resistors R52 and R53 – they are zero ohm resistors, and serve no other purpose than connecting the atmega chip directly to the onboard USB to UART converter (the CH340 chip). Do it VERY careful – you don’t want to damage your board. If you don’t feel confident – don’t do it.
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### Step 2
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Now prepare the printer’s motherboard. It requires a simple modification, that does not interfere with it’s operation afterwards – just solder 3 pin x 2 row male header on J8, and add 2 jumpers (or jumper wires) as shown on the picture:
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### Step 3
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Connect the ESP to J3 repsecting pinout
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|ESP|J3|
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|:---:|:---:|
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|Tx|Rx|
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|Rx|Tx|
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|GND|GND|
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|VCC|3.3V|
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|CH_PD|3.3V|
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For more Info check <http://lokspace.eu/anet-a8-wifi-mod/>
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## For connecting version 1.7 Anet boards
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Unlike older boards this board does not require you to remove any resistors.
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You will have to solder two wires from number 9 and number 10 its recommender to connect these to pin 1 and 2 of J3 connector.
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# MKS motherboard
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To connect the ESP3D to the MKS GEN v1.2 (but the v1.3 and above 1.4 is the most used today).
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I have used an ESP12E with the standard schematics, with one important difference, the two resistor connected to the RX pin are substituted by a 1N4148 diode, like in the Adafruit Huzzah board.
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ESP12E is connected to the AUX1
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ESP12E RX is connected to the pin NEAR GND of the upper row (Marked TXD on pinout.)
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ESP12E TX is connected to the adiacent pin at the end of the upper row (Marked RXD on pinout.)
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# Where to connect ESP on MKS board (Smoothieware compatible version)
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# Wiring NodeMCU V2/V3
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# Where to connect ESP on RAMPS 1.4/Re-ARM
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Ramps 1.4 can be used on Arduino Mega (repetier/marlin) and Re-ARM for ramps boards (smoothieware/marlin)
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Alternative pins if use Re-ARM (J4/UART port)
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# Where to connect ESP on Smoothieboard
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# Wiring Sonoff modules
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Relay is connected by GPIO12, it can be handled using ESP201 command:
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*Get/Set pin value
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[ESP201]P<pin> V<value> [PULLUP=YES RAW=YES]
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if no V<value> get P<pin> value
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if V<value> 0/1 set INPUT_PULLUP value, but for GPIO16 INPUT_PULLDOWN_16
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GPIO1 and GPIO3 cannot be used as they are used for serial
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if PULLUP=YES set input pull up, if not set input
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if RAW=YES do not set pinmode just read value
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So `[ESP201]P12 V0` should be off and `[ESP201]P12 V1` should be on
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# Where to connect ESP on Anycubic i3 mega - Trigorilla 8bit board
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To connect the ESP12e to the UART0. (Credits:<https://www.lesimprimantes3d.fr/forum/profile/197-murdock/>).
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(Green = RX, Blue = TX)
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5V (buck to 3.3v if directly connect to ESP - most development ESP boards already have this voltage limited built-in - but check!) and GND can be taken from the AUX3 exposed connector.
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UART0 is normally used by USB port so don't use both together - so this hack piggybacks on that same port at UART level.
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# Where to connect on Weedo Tina2 (Mega2560 based)
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This printer is also brand labelled as **Monoprice MP cadet 3D printer**
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In marlin this connection is **serial port 3**.
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Note the Mega2560 is 5V powered and ESP is 3V3 powered.
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Internet in controversial but it seems that ESP32 is 5V tolerant on input pins so it should not be an issue.
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# Wemos D1 mini
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# Where to connect ESP on RADDS
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## Result on Due/RADDS and Graphical LCD and repetier FW
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# ESP3D
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## Wiki
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# ESP3D Wiki
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* [Home](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki)
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* [Hardware connection](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Hardware-connection)
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* [Firmware compatibility](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Firmware--support)
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* [How to get the ESP Flash-Size](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Flash-Size)
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* [Direct ESP3D commands](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Direct-ESP3D-commands)
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* [Install-Instructions](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Install-Instructions)
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* [Notifications](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Notifications)
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* [Frequent Asked Questions](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/issues?q=is%3Aissue+is%3Aclosed+label%3AFAQ)
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### Printer motherboard wiring
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* [RADDS board](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Where-to-connect-ESP-on-RADDS-board)
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* [Davinci board](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Davinci-1.0-and-2.0-board)
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* [MKS Smoothieware board](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/MKS-Smoothieware-compatible)
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* [Ramps 1.4/Re-ARM](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Ramps-1.4-Re-ARM)
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* [AZSMZ mini and AZSMZ lcd](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/AZSMZ-mini-and-AZSMZ-lcd)
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* [Azteeg X5 mini](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Azteeg-X5-mini)
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* [BIQU KFB2.0](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/BIQU-KFB2.0)
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* [MKS BASE V1.2 and above](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/MKS-GEN-v1.2-(1.3-and-above-maybe))
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* [Creality CR-10 / Ender3](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Creality-CR-10-Ender-3)
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* [Creality Ender 4](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Creality-Ender-4)
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* [Smoothieboard](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Smoothieboard)
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* [Anycubic i3 mega - Trigorilla 8bit](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Trigorilla)
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* [Anet A8](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/How-to-connect-on-ANET-A8)
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* [Weedo Tina2](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Weedo-Tina2)
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### ESP daughterboard wiring
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* [ESP-01](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/ESP8266-01)
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* [ESP-01 serial wifi module](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/ESP-01-serial-wifi-module)
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* [ESP-12E/F](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/ESP8266-12E-F)
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* [ESP 12F serial wifi module](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Cheap-ESP-12F-based-serial-wifi-module)
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* [Sonoff](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Sonoff)
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* [NodeMCU V2/V3](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/NodeMCU)
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* [Wemos D1 mini](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/D1-mini)
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* [ESP32-Cam](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/ESP-32-CAM)
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390
wiki/hardware-connection.md
Normal file
390
wiki/hardware-connection.md
Normal file
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# Hardware connection
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If your motherboard doesn't support wifi, this repo will help you add an ESP board flashed with ESP3D firmware. The ESP32 or ESP8266 MCU on ESP board supports wifi and will connect to your printer using a serial UART port thus acting as a wifi to UART bridge. The board needs to be programmed and connected properly to your printer to work. The printer motherboard will also need to be reprogrammed to enable the UART port that will be used with ESP board.
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Connection between ESP and printer board needs 4 wires:
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- ESP Tx needs to connect to Rx on MCU of printer board.
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- ESP Rx needs to connect to Tx on MCU of printer board.
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- You also need to power supply ESP board with with GND and 3V3 or 5V.
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## Connecting ESP board (ESP MCU is 3.3V) to 5V printer board
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__Disclaimer__ : this wiki is for reference - you are responsible of your board supporting or not 5V, we are not responsible for any damage of wrong wiring.
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ESP32 and ESP8266 MCU are supporting only 3V3. Power supply them with 5V will likelly fry them immediatelly. As MCU is supplied at 3.3V, Tx and Rx signals will be at 3.3V even when board is supplied with 5V. Wether Rx pin is supporting 5V is controversial so we will keep on the safe side and only take datahseet as reference. It's not recommended to have any signal (including Rx) be higher than power supply (3.3V here).
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There are several points to take care. One should check that
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1. MCU1 Tx voltage is lower than MCU2 supply voltage
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2. Voh_min of Tx is higher than Vih_min of Rx (to check both ways)
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3. Vol_max of Tx is lower than Vil_max of Rx (to check both ways)
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1 is mandatory and [resistor voltage divider bridge](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider) or level shiffter is recommended
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2 & 3 are not destructive there is just a slight risk signals are not read correctly. But it will work in most case as the limit values given by datasheets are rarelly met in mild conditions (using near 25°C and low current flowing from Tx to Rx)
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For the divider bridge a value of R1=1k and R2=2.2k will be fine.
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You could also use 10k and 22k or anything near a factor 2.
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<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/dividerBridge.png' width='200'><br>
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click to enlarge
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## Connection diagrams for some printers and ESP boards
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- [Printer motherboards](#Printer-motherboards)
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- [Anet A8 boards](#Anet-A8-boards)
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- [Anycubic i3 mega - Trigorilla 8bit board](#Anycubic-i3-mega---Trigorilla-8bit-board)
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- [AZSMZ LCD board](#AZSMZ-LCD-board)
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- [AZSMZ-mini board](#AZSMZ-mini-board)
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- [Azteeg X5 mini board](#Azteeg-X5-mini-board)
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- [BIQU KFB2.0 board](#BIQU-KFB2.0-board)
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- [Creality CR10 Ender 3 board](#Creality-CR10-Ender-3-board)
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- [Creality Ender 4 board](#Creality-Ender-4-board)
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- [Davinci 1.0/2.0 board](#Davinci-1.0/2.0-board)
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- [Davinci 1.0A board](#Davinci-1.0A-board)
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- [MKS boards](#MKS-boards)
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- [MKS Smoothieware board](#MKS-Smoothieware-board)
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- [RADDS board](#RADDS-board)
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- [RAMPS 1.4/Re-ARM board](#RAMPS-1.4/Re-ARM-board)
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- [Smoothieboard board](#Smoothieboard-board)
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- [Weedo Tina2 board](#Weedo-Tina2-board)
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- [For printer boards not listed here](#For-printer-boards-not-listed-here)
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- [ESP boards](#ESP-boards)
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- [ESP-01](#ESP-01)
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- [ESP-01 serial wifi module](#ESP-01-serial-wifi-module)
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- [ESP-12E/F](#ESP-12E/F)
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- [ESP 12F serial wifi module](#ESP-12F-serial-wifi-module)
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- [ESP32-Cam](#ESP32-Cam)
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- [NodeMCU V2/V3](#NodeMCU-V2/V3)
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- [Sonoff](#Sonoff)
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- [Wemos D1 mini](#Wemos-D1-mini)
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## Printer motherboards
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### Anet A8 boards
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#### Anet boards up to v1.5
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#### Step 1
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You will also have to unsolder the resistors R52 and R53 – they are zero ohm resistors, and serve no other purpose than connecting the atmega chip directly to the onboard USB to UART converter (the CH340 chip). Do it VERY careful – you don’t want to damage your board. If you don’t feel confident – don’t do it.
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<img src='http://lokspace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/image08-300x300.jpg' width='200'><br>
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click to enlarge
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#### Step 2
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Now prepare the printer’s motherboard. It requires a simple modification, that does not interfere with it’s operation afterwards – just solder 3 pin x 2 row male header on J8, and add 2 jumpers (or jumper wires) as shown on the picture:
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<img src='http://lokspace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/image05-300x300.jpg' width='200'><br>
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click to enlarge
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#### Step 3
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Connect the ESP to J3 repsecting pinout
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<img src='http://lokspace.eu/wp-content/uploads/2017/01/image00-232x300.jpg' width='200'><br>
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click to enlarge
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|ESP|J3|
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|:---:|:---:|
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|Tx|Rx|
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|Rx|Tx|
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|GND|GND|
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|VCC|3.3V|
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|CH_PD|3.3V|
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For more Info check <http://lokspace.eu/anet-a8-wifi-mod/>
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#### For connecting version 1.7 Anet boards
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Unlike older boards this board does not require you to remove any resistors.
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You will have to solder two wires from number 9 and number 10 its recommender to connect these to pin 1 and 2 of J3 connector.
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Anet/board.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Anycubic i3 mega - Trigorilla 8bit board
|
||||
|
||||
To connect the ESP12e to the UART0. (Credits:<https://www.lesimprimantes3d.fr/forum/profile/197-murdock/>).
|
||||
(Green = RX, Blue = TX)
|
||||
5V (buck to 3.3v if directly connect to ESP - most development ESP boards already have this voltage limited built-in - but check!) and GND can be taken from the AUX3 exposed connector.
|
||||
UART0 is normally used by USB port so don't use both together - so this hack piggybacks on that same port at UART level.
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Trigorilla/board.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Trigorilla/nodemcu.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### AZSMZ LCD board
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/AZSMZ-mini/AZSMZ-12864-LCD.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### AZSMZ-mini board
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/AZSMZ-mini/AZSMZ-mini.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
If you don't have the soldering skills to grab the connectors from the unpopulated ethernet connection, you can also get 3.3v and GND from the ISP header (bottom left on the diagram above).
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Azteeg X5 mini board
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/AzteegX5-mini/azteeg.PNG' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### BIQU KFB2.0 board
|
||||
|
||||
all in one Ramps1.4/Mega2560 R3 controller based
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/BIQU-KFB2.0/board.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Creality CR10 Ender 3 board
|
||||
|
||||
For the Sanguino based CR-10 and Ender printers you will need to solder to any of the via circled (can also be done in the backside of board), or to the legs of the Arduino or ftdi. Connect TX from the board to RX of Wemos D1 mini and RX from board to TX of Wemos D1 mini. 5v and GND are located in the six pin header next to the LCD connector.
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/CR10/board.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
Since soldering might be difficult because the solder points are so close to each other, another option is to scrape off the insulation from the traces on the backside and solder there. Be extra careful not to scrape the surrounding ground plane. You need suitable fine scraping tools for this. The picture below shows an Ender-2 PCB.
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/CR10/traces.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Creality Ender 4 board
|
||||
|
||||
You will need to solder to small circle, or to the legs of the ATmega2560 (RXD0 pin 2, TXD0 pin 3)
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/ender4/board.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Davinci 1.0/2.0 board
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Davinci/davinci.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Davinci/board.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Davinci/boardconnected.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Davinci/backside.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Davinci/screen.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Davinci 1.0A board
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Davinci/davinciA-1.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Davinci/davinciA-4.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Davinci/davinciA-2.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
Alternate Module placement for increased WiFi range (outside metal chassis, antenna has vertical polarization)
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Davinci/davinciA-3.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### MKS boards
|
||||
|
||||
To connect the ESP3D to the MKS GEN v1.2 (but the v1.3 and above 1.4 is the most used today).
|
||||
|
||||
I have used an ESP12E with the standard schematics, with one important difference, the two resistor connected to the RX pin are substituted by a 1N4148 diode, like in the Adafruit Huzzah board.
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/MKS-1.2/wires.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
ESP12E is connected to the AUX1
|
||||
|
||||
ESP12E RX is connected to the pin NEAR GND of the upper row (Marked TXD on pinout.)
|
||||
ESP12E TX is connected to the adiacent pin at the end of the upper row (Marked RXD on pinout.)
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/MKS-1.2/board.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### MKS Smoothieware board
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/MKS-SMOOTHIEWARE/MKS-smoothie.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### RADDS board
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/RADDS/RADDS.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/RADDS/screen.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### RAMPS 1.4/Re-ARM board
|
||||
|
||||
Ramps 1.4 can be used on Arduino Mega (repetier/marlin) and Re-ARM for ramps boards (smoothieware/marlin)
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/RAMPS1.4/RAMPS.PNG' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
Alternative pins if use Re-ARM (J4/UART port)
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://i.ibb.co/cDMKGbK/Screenshot-20190803-022151.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Smoothieboard board
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Smoothieware/smoothieboard-wiring.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Weedo Tina2 board
|
||||
|
||||
This printer is also brand labelled as **Monoprice MP cadet 3D printer**
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/TINA2/weedo_tina2.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
In marlin this connection is **serial port 3**.
|
||||
|
||||
Note the Mega2560 is 5V powered and ESP is 3V3 powered.
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### For printer boards not listed here
|
||||
|
||||
Vast majority of printers have an USB port that is converted to UART before going to MCU. Many printers also have additional (unused) UART port you can use. When possible, always use the additional port for connecting ESP to printer board. When no additional UART port is available you might use the Tx and Rx lines between USB/UART converter and MCU but it's recommended to cut (in a reversible way) the line to USB/UART converter to avoid conflicts.
|
||||
|
||||
If the board is ATmega based the simplest way to find a usable UART port for the ESP is to open ATmega datasheet.
|
||||
|
||||
## ESP boards
|
||||
|
||||
### ESP-01
|
||||
|
||||
- Use GPIO2 to ground to reset all settings in hard way - 2-6 sec after boot / not before!! Set GPIO2 to ground before boot change boot mode and go to special boot that do not reach FW. Currently boot take 10 sec - giving 8 seconds to connect GPIO2 to GND and do an hard recovery for settings
|
||||
- Use GPIO0 to ground to be in update mode
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/HW/Wires.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### ESP-01 serial wifi module
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://www.keyestudio.com/u_file/1901/products/11/ff587ce89a.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
more info about the Breakout PCB: <https://www.keyestudio.com/keyestudio-esp-01s-wifi-to-serial-shield-module-for-arduino-esp8266-wifi-p0499-p0499.html>
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### ESP-12E/F
|
||||
|
||||
ESP need 3.3v, it is not 5v tolerant, if printer board use more than 3.3V like 5V on ramps.
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/HW/WiresESP12E.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
you can also use Logic LevelConverter Bi-Directional
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/HW/logic.PNG' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
In order to flash some ESP12E/F boards via their UART interface, the following pins need to be connected:
|
||||
|
||||
- VCC to GPIO2
|
||||
- GND to GPIO0
|
||||
|
||||
This has been tested with ESP-12-E boards labeled "ESP8266 For ESP3D FYSETC.COM"
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### ESP 12F serial wifi module
|
||||
|
||||
We can flash our loved ESP3D to cheap ESP-12F based serial wifi module (eg [from aliexpress](https://www.aliexpress.com/item/ESP8266-ESP-12F-Serial-WIFI-Wireless-Transceiver-Module-For-Arduino-ESP-12F-Adapter-Expansion-Board-For/32804504326.html) ). It contains built in 2-way levelshifter/bi-directional logic level converter. So we can power and use via 5V uart from the 3d printers' motherboard.
|
||||
|
||||
- We need to manualy ground the ```IO0``` while powering up to start in flash mode while powering up (there is no switch for that, neither for reset)
|
||||
- <img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/ESP/ESP12.png' width='200'><br>click to enlarge
|
||||
- I used FTDI adapter as usb2serial
|
||||
- We have to see in console/serial monitor boot mode is (**1**,7).
|
||||
- baudrate: 74880
|
||||
- ```rst cause:2, boot mode:(3,7)```
|
||||
- Then flash like other esp based board for esp3d
|
||||
- [check flash size](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Flash-Size). Mine has 4M
|
||||
- [Install](https://github.com/luc-github/ESP3D/wiki/Install-Instructions)
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### ESP32-Cam
|
||||
|
||||
Once the board is programmed, the wiring to the printer board should be like this:
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/ESP/ESPcam32.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
Note: 5V is power supply input and 3V3 is output from regulator. UART Tx and RX signals will be 3.3V
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### NodeMCU V2/V3
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/NodeMCU/NodeMCU.PNG' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Sonoff
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/Sonoff/Sonoff.png' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
Relay is connected by GPIO12, it can be handled using ESP201 command:
|
||||
|
||||
*Get/Set pin value
|
||||
[ESP201]P<pin> V<value> [PULLUP=YES RAW=YES]
|
||||
if no V<value> get P<pin> value
|
||||
if V<value> 0/1 set INPUT_PULLUP value, but for GPIO16 INPUT_PULLDOWN_16
|
||||
GPIO1 and GPIO3 cannot be used as they are used for serial
|
||||
if PULLUP=YES set input pull up, if not set input
|
||||
if RAW=YES do not set pinmode just read value
|
||||
|
||||
So `[ESP201]P12 V0` should be off and `[ESP201]P12 V1` should be on
|
||||
|
||||
---
|
||||
|
||||
### Wemos D1 mini
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/D1_mini/FB_IMG_1510306696875.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
|
||||
<img src='https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/luc-github/ESP3D/images/D1_mini/20171111_215253.jpg' width='200'><br>
|
||||
click to enlarge
|
||||
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|
||||
2022-02-06-18-19
|
||||
Loading…
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Reference in New Issue
Block a user